Monterey Bay Aquarium recently launched their online guide to sustainable sushi. It is part of their overall Seafood Watch program that aims to raise public awareness of sustainable fishing and consumer best practices. This monumental effort involves scientists, managers, citizens and fisherfolk working together to make recommendations on where and what to eat. You can read about all the steps and criteria for ranking in this handy PDF. Suffice to say, it seems thorough and it condenses all the information down into one of three recommendations: Best Choice; Good Alternative; Avoid. These are printed in an attractive format that fits in your wallet or mobile device. And after all that effort to make the decision easy, you’d think I’d be happy. But I am not.
It is because I recently had the option to order the monkfish. It is an animal whose name belies how truly monstrous it appears. Rather than being a sedate and cloistered creature, the monkfish looks as if it might consider me for a meal instead. But not knowing if it was better, best, or bad, I opened up the Seafood Watch Web site to check. After squinting at the margins and mashing the wrong link a few times, I eventually found out monkfish is a bad choice and avoided it and in so doing decided never to order seafood again.
For you see, I am tired of having doubts about what to eat from the sea. Call it blue-green ennui or environmental fatigue, it feels the same. That moment with the monkfish merely made me conscious of a preexisting behavior—I’ve been avoiding seafood for some time. Given the ocean of options at the fish counter, doubt inevitably washes over me and I instead settle for the tilapia or the “Delacata” because I think they are safe. With the snapper, the roughy or the hake, I am never sure. True, I could reference a handy guide, but no matter how sustainable it seems on paper, in practice I know that mongers will lie.
To be clear, I do not think that catfish are sea kittens. For me, it isn’t about the ethics of eating animals or if fish have feelings too. And I am not advocating a piscine proscription for anyone else. Instead, it’s about the recognition that I have too many doubts about what I am eating, more than any card or pamphlet can allay. I am not eating seafood now nor feel the need to eat it in the future and that is a decision which is, by default, sustainable. So, given the choice of A, B, or C, I am opting for D, none of the above. And I am happy with that.
Nom On
But let’s say you are someone who is inclined to nom on fish flesh. What to do? Of course, you can start by consulting the various online guides. And if that does not suffice, try a helping of Jacqueline Church’s blog where she is collecting sustainable seafood recipes to be published later this month. Or join an ocean wise Podmob and try to make a difference en masse.
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